I recently had an intriguing encounter at the historic Matsuzakaya Honten, a traditional Japanese inn with a rich 364-year legacy. Despite a rocky start, my experience left a lasting impression.
The Arrival: A Taste of Omotenashi
Our journey began with a taxi ride from Odawara station, a delightful introduction to the Japanese concept of omotenashi, or wholehearted hospitality. Our driver, a self-appointed tour guide, painted a moving picture of the landscape with his words, bringing the historic village, streams, and ancient forest to life.
However, our early arrival led to a cultural misstep. Check-in time is not a suggestion at Matsuzakaya Honten; it's a centuries-old tradition. We were politely ushered away, but this mistake led to an unexpected adventure to Lake Ashi.
A Patchwork of Eras
The inn itself is a fascinating blend of eras. The late-19th-century lobby is a nostalgic wonder, with its crimson carpet, bay windows, and antique furnishings. The property's 21 rooms are spread across five pavilions, each offering a view of the enchanting moss-covered gardens. The recent room revitalisation by Kinnotake Resorts has upgraded amenities while preserving the traditional aesthetic.
A Traditional Stay
Our premium Akashi room was a delight, with tatami flooring and futon beds. The space was generous, featuring separate living and sunrooms, and a private hexagonal open-air onsen. The traditional touches extended to sobagara makura pillows, which took some getting used to, and the inclusion of a yukata robe, adding to the cultural experience.
Dining Delights
Dining at Matsuzakaya Honten is an event in itself. The multi-course "shukuba kaiseki" menu pays homage to the inn's history as a rest stop along the Tokaido highway. Dinner highlights included finely presented delicacies like bluefin tuna sashimi and seared bonito. The star of the show, however, was the pre-ordered Japanese black wagyu beef hotpot, a decadent treat.
Breakfast was equally impressive, featuring homemade natto and a signature onsen egg, soft-boiled in the inn's mineral-rich springs.
Exploring Hakone
A short bus ride took us to Lake Ashi, offering scenic walks to the Hakone Shrine and the iconic torii gate. The historic Odakyu Hotel de Yama's public garden is a springtime spectacle, with nearly 3000 azalea blooms and a breathtaking view of Mount Fuji on clear days. A sail to Togendai Port and a ride on the Hakone Ropeway cable car to Owakudani complete the Hakone experience, with its famous black eggs, volcanic vents, and panoramic views.
The Verdict: A Perfect Blend
Despite the strict check-in times, Matsuzakaya Honten's centuries-old hospitality schedule is a tradition worth respecting. The inn seamlessly blends 17th-century heritage with modern luxury, creating a blueprint for cultural immersion without compromising comfort. It's a unique experience that Australian travellers will surely appreciate.
Highlights and Lowlights
The highlight for me was the private onsens in the rooms, a luxurious and discreet alternative to the public onsens. However, the scarcity of wall sockets, especially near the futons, was a modern inconvenience in this historic sanctuary.
Overall, Matsuzakaya Honten is a five-star experience, and I highly recommend it for those seeking an authentic, luxurious Japanese getaway.
Personal Reflection
What makes this inn particularly fascinating is its ability to preserve its rich history while catering to modern travelers. It's a delicate balance, and Matsuzakaya Honten has mastered it. From my perspective, it's a testament to the power of cultural preservation and the potential for deep immersion in a foreign land.
